First impressions of Kuala Lumpur. Huge super-modern airport, decent express train down the 50km to the central station. And then the cab ride to my hotel, through a backdrop of flashy, glowing skyscraper hotels and office blocks, illuminating the super-highways and transit systems ribboning their way across the whole Blade Runner-like cityscape…
…bearing in mind of course that I was in a clunky old taxi driven by a geezer who obviously spoke no English and who barely recognised my existence from pick-up to set-down.
That seems to sum up KL. A place in a hurry to catch up with and overtake the rest of the world – particularly Singapore – while still feeling a tad run-down in places where you feel they’re wondering what to do with all this shiny modernity. A bit like Bangkok, but not as mad.
Up the following morning to do some exploring…
The monorail, never been on one of these before. Opened in 2003 but I think it’s showing its age. Yes, I’m pretty sure that’s Eric Cantona. Must dash…
…here comes my train!
We’re off to Bukit Bintang, KL’s shopping and entertainment hub.
The guidebooks suggest that the city is really about two things; street food and shopping malls. You’ll get your fair share of both here. In fact I found about five huge malls virtually on the same block!
I’m not a great fan of malls but I had to buy some shorts so let’s pop in to a couple…
Chinese New Year celebrations. Lots of visitors from China in town, but also bear in mind that nearly half the population of Kuala Lumpur is ethnic Chinese. The other half is mainly Malay with a large Tamil Indian community. They haven’t always got on.
As you all know, Malaysia caused an international crisis recently by kidnapping all the restaurants in the world and holding them to ransom in this mall. Experts consider that their demands, that their beloved Manchester United start playing watchable football again, are unlikely to be met in the short term.
Malls are boring. Time for some history.
Dataran Merdaka – Freedom Square – is home to the beautiful buildings of the old Colonial Secretariat.
This was KL’s principal landmark, before the Petronas oil company fancied acquiring some more office space. It could have been plucked straight from the British Raj. The Royal Selangor Club, dear boy, is a mock-Tudor building on the other side of the green square. (The Royal Selangor Turf Club is the space that Petronas acquired).
The green square underneath the marquees used to host cricket matches back in the day. And a rather large flagpole.
At midnight on 31st August 1957, the Union Flag was lowered from this flagpole for the last time and the flag of independent Malaya raised, followed by chants of “Merdaka!”
At 95m this flagpole is one of the tallest in the world. Lonely Planet seems to think it was that tall at Independence. However the City Gallery nearby implies that it was actually constructed in 1990. Maybe they replaced the old tall thing with a new one. We’ve already discovered that Kuala Lumpur likes tall things. And shopping malls.
City Gallery? It’s a passable museum about KL and it’s on the square as well. Let’s go in. I’m hungry!
Mmm, nasi lemak, the national dish, in the museum cafe. Rice in coconut milk, anchovies, chicken side, some seafood in there as well I believe. I’m going to have to tuck into this beauty now, and I’ll continue the tour afterwards. Back soon!
orwellianTwo 